RTW Trip Day #87: Off Grid in Paradise Bay and Kayaking the Pelorus Sound

24 December 2025

Steps: 7,734

Today we set off on our way to Paradise Bay in the Pelorus Sounds, where we are staying at an off grid house for two nights over Christmas.

As we arrived at the port in Havelock to catch our water taxi, the sun was out and the water was calm, which instantly lifted everyone’s mood as there had been a mixed forecast. It felt like the perfect start to our stay, and we were all excited to reach our off grid accommodation.

We used Kenepuru water taxis and he was great. He was really chatty and incredibly informative, sharing stories about the area and its history as we travelled through the sounds.

We would have loved to catch the Mail Boat that has been operating since 1918 and does go past Paradise Bay, but it only runs once a week and at specific times, so it wasn’t an option for us.

Paradise Bay in the Pelorus Sounds

We stepped off the boat onto the jetty and carried our bags up the hill to the house. We definitely could have done without the uphill climb, but I suppose that’s the trade off for such beautiful views over the sound!

The house itself is lovely. It’s old and rustic, with plenty of beds for everyone. The kitchen was very well stocked with sauces and condiments, and with an oven and a BBQ, it was perfect for cooking the two dinners we had planned.

We spent some time relaxing on the balcony and soaking up the sun, while the girls enjoyed having time to simply play. That kind of downtime has been rare on this trip, so it was really nice to slow things down.

Kayaking in Paradise Bay, Pelorus Sounds

In the early evening, we took the kayaks out for a paddle around the bay, and it was absolutely perfect.

The water was incredibly clear and calm, with barely any wind at all. At times we just lay back and floated, taking it all in. While paddling along the shoreline, we even spotted a couple of stingrays gliding through the water.

For dinner, we continued a tradition from our Kuwait days of having fish on Christmas Eve. Normally we make fish pie, but this time we kept things simple with fish fingers, chips, and baked beans. It hit the spot perfectly.

Later in the evening, we watched the first Lord of the Rings movie. The girls have been listening to the audiobooks of The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings in the car, and they’re getting very excited about visiting Hobbiton later in the trip.

Evelyn's quote of the day: "Just two hobbits hugging in a boat.... totally normal"

The stars were absolutely incredible. Of course, I had left my tripod back in the car in Havelock, so I didn't get any decent photos. The girls even spotted Santa, or for the sceptics among you, a shooting star!

Previous Day #86: Exploring Abel Tasman National Park

Next Day #88: Christmas in the Pelorus Sounds

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