RTW Trip Day #69: Ubud Water Purification Ceremony and the Elephant Cave Temple

6 December 2025

Steps: 8,389 (but around 1000 actual steps)!

We had been wanting to visit a temple in Ubud for a water purification ceremony. Jessica has really taken to visiting temples on this trip and the ceremony felt like something completely different from anything we’ve seen elsewhere in Asia.

The main temple visited by tourists is Tirta Empul, but it’s about a 50 minute drive from our hotel, and gets very busy unless you arrive early in the morning.

We did some searching and found a much quieter alternative that was a lot closer, then from there continued on to the elephant cave called Goa Gajah, where we were shown around by a guide who explained the basics of Hindu culture and the history of the site.

Ubud Water Purification Ceremony at the Pura Beji Dalem Sapat Temple

We caught a Grab to the drop off point for the temple, and it took us a little while to realise that we actually had to walk down the side of the temple and follow a set of steps down to the river in order to reach the purification fountains.

The steps down to the purification area were steep and a little slippery, but it was nice hearing the sound of a small waterfall down below. If you have small children or anyone who struggles with steps, this isn’t the temple for you though, especially in this heat and humidity.

We had read that entry to the temple was 35k IDR each, which included sarong rental, but when we reached the area with the lockers, sarongs and changing rooms, there was no one there. We wondered if there was a box we were supposed to leave the money, but we didn't see one, so I’m not entirely sure how we were meant to pay. If you are planning to visit, I would assume that you do have to pay, and bring enough cash as there definitely wouldn't be any card payments!

In the end we each grabbed a sarong that was lying on a drying rack and made our way down to the river where the fountains were.

We made a point of reading the instructions on how to take part, and tried to follow as closely as we could, although we didn’t swallow any of the water - we didn’t want to take any chances even though it’s meant to be a natural spring.

The whole area was incredible peaceful, and although it was a little strange to be the only ones there, it was great to not have lines of tourists trying to capture the perfect IG photo. We spend time admiring the carvings in the stone, and listening to the sound of the river.

If you are looking for an authentic purification experience, and don't mind a few steps, I would really recommend this temple, especially if the crowds have been frustrating you, as you likely won't see anyone there at all.

The Elephant Cave (Goa Gajah)

When we arrived at Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), we paid the entrance fee of 50,000 IDR per adult, and 25,000 IDR for kids, which includes sarong rental.

Don’t fall for the “you need to buy a sarong” sales pitch from the ladies waiting by the parking area, as you’ll be given one as you enter.

We walked down the steps into the main temple area and decided to hire a guide for 100,000 IDR, as Pops wanted to learn a bit more about the history of the temple.

The guide was excellent and went into lots detail about the history of the site, and about Hinduism in general. There is no signage so it would be hard to find out information otherwise.

We learned that the cave Is around a thousand years old, including the entrance that is carved into the rock as a fierce guardian face. You might notice a hand on the side of it’s face, that we were told is to protect the right side from the left sides evil spirits.

Just outside the cave is the purification area, where seven fountains once flowed (the middle one has been removed) with three on each side and one in the middle symbolising balance. We didn’t see anyone taking part, but our guide explained that people still come here to do a water ritual, though it isn’t really something aimed at tourists.

From there we followed the steps down into the gardens below, where the guide pointed out the remains of a Buddhist temple that collapsed in a 1917 earthquake. Carvings and stupa fragments are still scattered around the stream.

The gardens are really beautiful, and I think we would have missed them entirely if we hadn’t had a guide, as it’s not immediately obvious that there’s a path leading down there.

Dinner for 2!

For dinner, my parents took the girls to the hotel BBQ that was being put on for a Saturday night, but Susie and I decided to head into Ubud for a meal just the two of us, as we had eaten with the girls for at least 68 days straight!!!

We went completely off-book with Italian food at Portofino restaurant, but it was lovely. Susie ordered a lamb ragu and I had the butternut squash ravioli, and it was exactly what we needed. The tiramisu was pretty damn good as well!

Previous Day #68: The Ubud Water Palace

Next Day #70: TBC

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