RTW Trip Day #84: Driving Arthur’s Pass in New Zealand's South Island

21 December 2025

Steps: 16,532

Driving Arthur’s Pass

Arthur’s Pass is one of the main alpine routes crossing New Zealand’s South Island, linking the Canterbury Plains on the east coast with the wild West Coast. The drive winds through mountain valleys, river gorges, and native forest, with plenty of short walks and scenic stops along the way.

The stretch through Arthur’s Pass National Park is only around 45 kilometres long, but it is slow going in the best way, with so many worthwhile places to stop and explore.

We left our accommodation at Porters Lodge and drove about ten minutes to our first stop which was Castle Hill.

Castle Hill

Castle Hill is a large open area filled with enormous limestone boulders and rock formations. It was such a fun stop for the kids, and the girls especially loved climbing through gaps, scrambling up onto the rocks, and making up games as they explored.

There was also a school group there at the same time, with kids playing tag in the wide open area near the top, which was fun to watch!

It is easy to see why this spot is so popular with families, and it has even been used as a filming location for The Chronicles of Narnia, standing in for scenes from the fantasy world.

Cave Stream Scenic Reserve

Our next stop along the pass was Cave Stream Scenic Reserve, which is home to a truly unique cave that, under the right conditions, you can walk all the way through to the other side. The cave stretches for about one kilometre and follows the course of the Cave Stream River underground.

To reach the cave entrance, we first had to make our way down the hill and to cross the river. There were stepping stones, but with the water flowing faster than usual, we decided it was safer to remove our shoes and socks and cross barefoot.

We ventured into the cave for a short distance, but just a few steps in, the water was already knee deep. You can follow a narrow ledge along part of the way, but going further requires a willingness to get very wet. It poured it down with rain the night before, so it raised the water level significantly.

After climbing back up from the cave entrance, we walked around to the cave exit and spoke with a group who had just come through. They were wearing full wetsuits and thermal jackets and had two children with them. The mother mentioned that the water had reached shoulder height at one point. While it isn’t always that high, Cave Stream is definitely a spot where being well prepared is essential.

Devils Punchbowl Waterfall

We walked along the Arthur’s Pass walking track to the Bridal Veil Falls viewpoint, then crossed the bridge and continued on to Devils Punchbowl Waterfall. The track winds through native forest and steadily climbs uphill, with the sound of rushing water growing louder as you get closer.

There are around 400 steps on the way up, which definitely gets the legs burning, but the effort is worth it. The waterfall is incredibly powerful and tall, plunging down the cliff face, and the viewing deck sits close enough to really feel the force of the water and the spray in the air. It reminds me a little bit of Takakaw Falls in Yoho National Park in Canada. The water looked so inviting we had to drink some!

Te Nikau Retreat in Punakaiki

From Arthur’s Pass we finally reached the coast and headed north past Greymouth to Punakaiki, where our accommodation at Te Nikau Retreat is located.

The change in scenery was dramatic, with the alpine landscape giving way to lush rainforest, and the rugged West Coast shoreline. It felt like we had travelled through several different regions in a single day.

We stayed in a lovely old wooden cabin that we were told was built entirely by hand by a German family many years ago. It felt warm and cosy, and was nestled in the rainforest away from anyone - just how we like it!

The Truman Track and Truman Beach

Before dinner we walked down to Truman Beach via the Truman Track, which we could access directly from our accommodation. The track winds through some of Paparoa National Park’s most beautiful forest, with towering podocarp and rātā trees rising above thick vines and nīkau palms, and it feels surprisingly removed from the road almost immediately.

The track eventually opens onto a spectacular stretch of coastline. We were lucky the tide was out, as we wouldn’t have been able to venture down to the beach otherwise.

Below the viewpoint are rugged cliffs, caverns, a blowhole, and even a waterfall that plunges straight down onto the rock-strewn pebble beach. 

The power of the ocean was incredible, so swimming was definitely not an option, but the scenery was breathtaking.

From the viewing platform above, the coastal views were just as impressive, with waves crashing relentlessly against the rocks.

It felt wild and raw and was a classic West Coast New Zealand beach.

In the evening, we enjoyed another home-cooked meal - fajitas this time - which felt perfect after a long day. We’re really appreciating the chance to cook our own food in New Zealand and to spend time together playing games around the dinner table.

Previous Day #83: Lake Tekapo and the Dark Sky Experience

Next Day #85: The Pancake Rocks, and the Drive to Abel Tasman

Read About Our Itinerary here