RTW Trip Day #21: Ninh Binh: Mua Caves Viewpoint and Hao Lu Night Market

andrewsco3
21 hours ago
3 min read

19 October 2025

Steps: 8,371

We started the day with breakfast at our homestay, which included in the price. The girls and Susie had the banana pancakes and I tried Banh Cuon, which is a traditional Vietnamese breakfast of rolled rice pancakes with pork. It was really good!

pork traditional breakfast — A traditional breakfast of rolled rice pancake with pork

Bich Dong Pagoda

Bich Dong pagoda was about a 15 minute Grab taxi ride to get there, and I had seen the part where you cross the lake, to the temple entrance on Instagram before, so of course that meant it was busy!

The lake itself was beautiful and filled with lotus flowers. After passing through the main gate, there’s a short walk to the main temple, and then a climb up a short set of steps to another temple built partway into the cliff. It was impressive but nothing too remarkable - we had seen everything after about 30 minutes.

After visiting the pagoda, we went for lunch at T Bar in Tam Coc, as we’d read a blog that said they served proper ‘English chips’ rather than French fries. They were actually really good!

I also tried Vietnamese prawn spring rolls, which were quite different from the ones back home since they had pineapple in them. The girls had peanut butter and banana on toast and loved it.

Mua Caves Viewpoint

Mua caves are really more of a beautiful setting and hike to a viewpoint than actual caves. If you are going to see caves then I wouldn’t bother coming here, but instead do one of the river boat tours that include exploring caves.

Entry is 100,000 VND per person, that seemed a little steep comparatively to some other places, but it on reflection I thought it was well worth the money.

As you walk towards the start of the stone steps up to the viewpoint, there are lots of small cafés where you can grab a drink and take a break.

The whole area is filled with picturesque spots perfect for photos – think bridges, lanterns, pagodas, stepping stones, and lotus leaves.

You could easily spend some time here capturing a few creative shots for Instagram if you’re so inclined.

The girls on anotehr bridge at the mua caves

I’m not going to lie, the steps to the top where the famous Mua Caves viewpoint is was tough in this heat! We didn’t count them, but some told us there were over 500 steps and I believe them. We randomly met a goat half way up which was unexpected!

When you get near the top there is a fork. Right takes you to a small shrine, with lovely views over the valley, including the lotus fields you just walked past in the way. Left takes you to the iconic views over the river and valley.

The view of the steps to the river viewpoint (from the other viewpoint) — the steps up to the left viewpoint (taken from the right viewpoint)

Views over the lotus fields — the lotus fields from the ‘right’ viewpoint

The famous river valley viewpoint — the famous river valley view

Mua caves valley viewpoint — View of the ‘left’ viewpoint (taken from the right viewpoint)

Don’t miss the boardwalk paths that wind their way through the ponds that are filled with lotus leaves and flowers. It is free and included in your ticket.

Girls on the boardwalk at the lotus valley

There are also a few ladies hand painting traditional Vietnamese hats. Jess ended up buying a really cute watermelon one as she’s been looking for one ever since Hanoi.

Hao Lu Night Market

the temple in the background all lit up with lanterns

The lady at our homestay recommended that we visit the Hao Lu night market, so we went along for dinner, not really knowing what to expect.

It was great! There are a two temples that you can go into, and one that you can climb up to the top along an open air boardwalk. It's very picturesque as the whole place was lit up with lanterns all over the place.

The girls had a sausage on a stick for dinner. Pretty much all of the street vendors were selling them and they were really cheap. It was one of our favourite evenings in Vietnam.